Whirlpool Washer Repair – How to Replace the Bellow (Whirlpool Part # WPW10381562)

Whirlpool Washer Repair – How to Replace the Bellow (Whirlpool Part # WPW10381562)


Hi, it’s Steve. Today we’d like to show you how to change
the bellows on your front load washer. It’s a really easy job, let me show you how
we do it. Now to do this repair we will need to pull
the washer far enough forward, so we can remove screws that secure the main top to the cabinet. We’re also going to need to take the lower
access panel off and the front panel and door assembly, as well as the control panel. We’ll begin by pulling it front enough forward
so we can access the back and remember to unplug the washer before we begin. Now we have access to the back, we’ll remove
these three screws that secure that top. Just pull back slightly on that top to disengage
the hooks at the front. We’re going to lift it off and set it aside. We’ll go back to the front of the washer. Next, we’ll pull open the dispenser drawer,
pull the drawer as far as it’ll go, then you can push that tab at the back to release it. We’ll remove that and set it aside. Next, we’ll locate the single screw over the
left-hand side here. Depending on the model there may be a single
screw at the very top and at the bottom of that console. Remove that as well. Then we need to release that tab on the right-hand
side. Before we pull it on the bottom of that console,
we need to release this tab. Just put enough pressure on it so that it
closes. Line up the teeth opening in that support
panel, then pull it backward. We hinge it forward, we can then lift up on
the top to disengage the tabs at the top. You can lay that console across the top of
the washer. Our next step we remove the two screws that
secure the door latch assembly to the front panel. Remove these two screws that secure that door
lock assembly. Take note that those screws have a built-in
flat washer to protect the painted finish. We have the door open, we can also remove
that burn clamp that goes around that bellows. At the very bottom, you’ll note there’s a
spring. There will be a loop on the end of a wire
band that attaches to that spring. Just grab that loop and roll that end. Remove that clamp, set it aside, also remove
that bellows away from the front panel, and just let it tuck inside. Close the door back up. We’ll next remove three screws from the bottom
of the lower access panel. The support of that panel has removed
the last screw. Tilt it out and let it drop down releasing
these two locating tabs. We can next remove the two lower screws for
the door and front panel assembly, and then while supporting that door and the front panel
assembly we will remove the two top screws. Slowly drop down, tilt it out and then remove
it as an assembly. Now with the front panel door out of the way,
our next step is to remove the clamp that secures that bellows to the outer tub. On the left side, you’ll see a folk screw
it tightens that clamp. Just take note of the location of it, and
loosen that screw. Loosen that screw make sure the head of the
screw stays tight up against that coil on that wire band, so that it doesn’t thread
itself into the top portion as well. We don’t need to remove the screw, but we
should loosen up most of the way. Then we can peel it away from that bellows,
and just take the bellows and peel it away from the outer tab. We can discard the old one. Next, we’ll inspect that lip around the face
of that outer tub, make sure that that’s not damaged, make sure your basket is tight in
the bearings. If all that is good, we can go ahead and proceed
to replace that bellows. We’ve taken the opportunity to clean up that
lip of that tub just a bit to remove any soap debris that may be there. Also, we’re going to want to take the new
bellows. you’ll note the profile of it. A portion of that and tuck inside of that
outer tub in between the outer tub and the inner basket. If you wish you to take a little bit of that
cleaning fluid just to moisten that area enough, while that slide on there easier. Now that we’ve lubricated up that bellows,
we’re going to locate the bottom of the bellows, that’s where the little drain holes are, we’ll
line those up with that slotted opening on the bottom of the outer tub. We want to tuck that portion inside, between
the outer tub and the inner basket. Now, once we have that tucked in between the
tubs, we can then concentrate on making sure that it’s lined up properly. Making sure that those drain holes are centered
at six o’clock position, and the tub on the top is right at the 12 o’clock position. Then we’re going to take the outer lip of
that bellows, you’ll see there is a little V-groove in that. We need to peel that over the V-shaped channel
on that outer tub. Use caution when you do that so that you don’t
pull that bellows open between the inner and outer basket. We find the method that works best for you
is to reach inside the bellows on that rigid band and keep putting pressure on there to
fold that lip over the outside. You need to make sure that we have it lined
up straight, and that it sits in that groove all the way around, and we can take that band,
slide it into that groove. Once we’ve verified that’s sitting in that
V-groove, we can start to tighten that clamp. Now that clamp is tightened securely, our
next step will be to put the front panel back on. Take the door front panel assembly, and we’re
going to tuck this top lip just in underneath the edge of that. Then just line up the top two screw holes
and verify that the bottom ones are lines up. Then you can open up that door. Now with the front panel firmly in place,
next, we’re going to reach inside, locate that door lock thing. Line it up in the opening, make sure that
the door switch is snugly in that circular opening. We install the retaining screws. Next, we’ll pull that bellows through the
opening just enough that the outer lip comes through. Make sure there’s no kinks in it. Then you take note that there is a V-view-shape
on the lip of that bellows. That will tuck right into the folded edge
on that front panel. I’ll just fit that all the way around. Now inspect that all the way around the perimeter,
and make sure that the edge of that bellows is laying flush against the front panel, which
would indicate that it’s set firmly in position. Next we’ll install the band clamp at the front. First of all make sure that the spring is
pulled right to the ends of those loops on the wire band located in the six o’clock position. Make sure that-that band sits right down in
that groove. With a pair of needle nose pliers, grasp the
end of that water band. We’re going to pull that band towards us,
which will stretch the spring, and fit the rest of that wire down into the bellows. Inspect it to make sure that set firmly in
place. You can close that door up. Next well reinstall that lower access panel. We’ll begin by taking these locating pins. Now, will put the holes on the bottom on the
front panel, upward pressure on that lower access panel. We’ll start by putting the center screw in
first. Once we have that locked in place, we can
install the two outside ones. Now our next step will be to reinstall the
console, or a control panel. Just roll that over, probably better to open
up the door, if your model uses the screw to the bottom of that control panel. We want to make sure that we hook that down
below that bracket. Once we have that tucked in underneath there,
press in firmly on the right hand side till that tab engages on the side. Snap the top into place, we’ll reinstall the
retaining screw on the left side by the detergent box. Install the screw through the center into
the console. Make sure it goes into flush. We install the detergent drawer, and now we
can put the main top on. I set it back with a half-inch from the back
of the console. Pull it forward and then install the three
screws across the back. Now we can push the washer back into position. We’re ready to reconnect the power and our
repair is complete.

20 thoughts on “Whirlpool Washer Repair – How to Replace the Bellow (Whirlpool Part # WPW10381562)

  1. I bought the replacement part for model wfw9250ww00. I called whirlpool for the item number. I was told it's w10290499. I went on eBay to buy the replacement. we tried every way to put it in and just wont go in. I have a feeling that we were sent the wrong below. Is there a way you can show us how the right below looks like? I already broke nails by trying to put the replacement in. Even my husband has given up and went to sleep.

  2. Thanks a bunch. Just followed through this video and completed the replacement on my washer today. Took me an hour and a half doing it the first time.

  3. thank you very much for this video,
    getting that baffle started was a pain in the butt,
    I , at first, was trying to install the baffle backwards. that was a fun 15 minutes.
    once I flipped it and could feel how it went it it was just a matter of perseverance, man vs machine…
    I kept getting half of it on then it would somehow pop out and I'd have to start over.
    then we brought in another set of hands to keep is stable.
    this was when I could see light at end of tunnel.
    overall took me a little over an hour,
    doing it again, i'm sure i could trim off 20 minutes.
    Good Luck to the next guy or gal.

  4. Thank you. Took me about 40 min from start to finish. Worked like a charm. Putting the small spring loaded clamp was the most difficult.

  5. Steve, this is the 4th how to video I have watched from you. This video and the other three helped me save hundreds of dollars. Thank you so much!!!

  6. Thank you. Couldn't have done this repair without your video! Very clear and straightforward, took us about an hour and 15 minutes.

  7. I have a Maytag and it's design exactly the same.
    I can't seem to get the inner band in the v-groove. It seems to be too small but I know it's not because I took it off myself. I unloosen the screw to it's Limit still want fit. Can anyone help me.

  8. This dude makes tucking the baffle in between the drum look easy. It’s a major pain! But still better than paying someone else to do the repair.

  9. How imperative is it to remove the top of the washing machine? I have a stacked washer and dryer so removing the top of the washing machine would mean removing the door to the bathroom and getting 2 guys to come help me lift the dryer out of the bathroom…

  10. You are my hero! I was able to do everything on the repair except install the second wire/spring on the front part of the bellow. Using the needle nose pliers that you showed, along with a couple plastic bicycle spanners (normally used for mounting bicycle tires onto rims), I was able to mount that wire/spring and complete the repair. And nothing leaks! Thank you so much for posting this!

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