TC Projects: Lead-Acid Battery Backup

TC Projects: Lead-Acid Battery Backup


For the past, well, decade really, my mom
has worked from home. And about a year and half ago, she and my
dad moved to the country, surrounded by farmland roughly a two hour’s drive from Chicago. Her most recent work setup includes a RAP,
which essentially creates a dedicated, hardwired VPN connection over the Internet, so as far
as her computer and desk phone know, she’s still at an office in Chicago. She occasionally makes trips into the office,
but for the most part works here. Now in the past few months, for some reason
the electric service at their house has gotten a little unpredictable. They’ve never been without power for more
than a day, and usually less than 8 hours, but in the last month there have been two
power outages. And they’ve happened during her working
hours. Which kinda sucks. Actually, it really sucks, because depending
on the circumstances of the day, she might have to hop in the car and take a two hour
drive to work at the drop of a hat. So today, I’m gonna fix that for her. Now before you suggest so, they do have a
portable generator. But the generator lives in a shed, and takes
time to set up–plus, it’s cumbersome and too heavy for my mom to move by herself. And regardless, their generator produces a
really dirty and noisy power output, which some electronics really don’t like. Since all of this equipment belongs to her
company, she’s real leery on plugging any of it into the generator. And I don’t blame her. We know from experience with the generator
and a small uninterruptible power supply that… well the UPS didn’t find the generator’s
output safe enough and wouldn’t pass its power through. And it never worked correctly after that. So what we’re gonna do is use a deep cycle
lead acid battery as a temporary power source. A pure sine wave inverter on the battery will
produce a clean output that hopefully won’t bother her setup. And to recharge the battery, we’ll simply
use an automatic car battery charger, as after all a 12v lead acid battery is pretty much
universal in how you charge it. But, that doesn’t mean all lead acid batteries
are the same–no they are not. I’ll explain shortly. I want to add here that this process was done
with expediency in mind. My mom elected to buy this inverter on Amazon
and have it overnighted to her, and we would just pick up a battery at Menards that day
(I was due to visit them). The inverter is great–no qualms there–but
the battery is less than ideal. This is a marine deep cycle battery. As far as batteries go that you can just buy
at a hardware store, this is the closest to the best kind. But it’s probably not going to last for
too many charge cycles. Here, let’s explain a bit about lead acid
battery chemistry. Hold up–if you’re a newcomer to the channel
and are just looking for how to do this, go ahead and skip to this time. On this channel I like to explain a lot about
how stuff works, and I totally understand if that’s not why you’re here. Lead-acid batteries are incredibly simple. They are the oldest type of rechargeable battery,
invented in 1859 by French physicist Gaston Plante’. Their construction is quite basic–two plates,
one lead and the other lead dioxide, are submerged in a bath of sulfuric acid which serves as
the electrolyte. When it’s fully charged, the acidity of
the electrolyte solution is very high, thus there are a lot positively charged hydrogen
ions floating around, as well as negatively charged sulfate ions. Now I won’t get into the chemistry specifics–I’ll
save that for another video–but energy in the battery comes mainly from the acid. The sulfate ions will react with both the
negative and positive plates to form lead sulfate, and the hydrogen ions react in the
positive plate with oxygen atoms to form water. The more concentrated the acid is, the more
charged the battery is. Conversely, the more lead sulfate that appears on the plates, the more discharged the battery becomes. And this is where we get into the nitty gritty
of battery types. There are two basic categories of lead-acid
battery; deep cycle, and SLI which stands for Starting, Lighting, and Ignition. Essentially an SLI battery is a car battery,
and these are absofreakinlutely terrible at being deep cycled. If you just buy a car battery for backup power,
you’ll be lucky if it lasts a dozen cycles before it’s dead. And that’s because of how they are designed
and constructed. Car batteries need to be able to produce an
enormous surge of current for the starter motor. To get more current, you need a large surface
area on the plates of the battery. And with limited room, this surface area is
created by making the plates small, numerous, and sort of like a sponge. These spongy plates are great at producing
tons of current, but they limit the battery’s ability to be discharged and recharged. See as the battery discharges, the plates
don’t just get coated with lead sulfate. They become lead sulfate–just as a rusty
piece of metal isn’t covered in rust–the metal has turned to rust. And lead sulfate isn’t a good conductor. If you let a car battery get discharged too
much, the spongy plates can sort of get clogged with the lead sulfate. The more this happens, the less current it
can pass, and then it can’t be recharged to reform the lead and lead oxide. Another common occurrence is called shedding. Again due to the spongy nature of the plates,
the expansion and contraction as the lead plate becomes lead sulfate and is turned back
to lead through recharging can actually cause bits of the plate to fall off, thus limiting
not only current passing ability but also capacity. But normally, a car battery will stay almost
completely charged all the time. The starter will only run for a few seconds,
then once the engine is running the alternator will swiftly replenish that charge. Ordinarily, the battery is hardly cycled at
all, and very little lead sulfate forms anywhere in the battery. Thus, it’s typical for a car battery to
last 5 years or more, but may only survive a few episodes of leaving the headlights on. Deep cycle batteries, on the other hand, have
big, thick, solid plates. With limited surface area, they can’t produce
monstrous surge currents, but they can tolerate much more lead sulfate building up without harming
the battery. They’re less susceptible to shedding due
to the non-porous nature of their plates, and in general are more specialized and a
bit more expensive. Due to their inability to create surge currents,
they aren’t used as a car battery but instead for things like golf carts, battery backup
solutions, and some early electric cars used them as their main source of propulsion power. For this project, we’re using a compromise
battery. There is a subset of batteries called marine
batteries, and within that subset there’s a subsubset called marine deep cycle. That’s what this is. These batteries have thicker and stronger
plates than an ordinary car battery, but they can still provide a generous surge of current. I chose this battery because it was A) Readily
available and B) cheap. A whopping $89, however a $7 core charge was
placed on top of that because I didn’t have a used battery to return. Speaking of, did you know that lead acid batteries
are among the most recycled things in the world? Everything in here can easily be recycled
and purified, with only the paper separators between plates being impossible to recover. Because of that core charge, people are incentivised
to not throw their batteries into landfill, and battery manufacturers have a steady supply
of used batteries to condense into their constituent parts and make new batteries again. It is almost certainly the case that this
battery was once many other batteries, with the materials having hopped from car to car
and from boat to boat. Look at that, society coming together to solve
a problem and no one’s complaining about it. Great job. So first, we want to determine what our needs
are. And I was going on an estimate. This setup uses a laptop in a docking station
and two 20 inch monitors, but there is also a power supply for the RAP, her phone, the
Google WiFi router (though that could be turned off if required), and the actual DSL modem,
so while the computer and monitor are probably the bulk of everything, there are a lot of
small loads that might add up. I basically just assumed 100 watts would be
enough, and let’s roll with that. Annoyingly this sort of battery usually isn’t
labeled with a helpful figure like amp-hours or watt hours. Instead it has a stat called reserve capacity. Now I simply picked the largest battery they
had among this selection, and I didn’t yet know what RC meant. So after some googling, I learned that a battery’s
reserve capacity is the time in minutes that it can sustain a discharge rate of 25 amps
before it drops to 10.5 volts, which is pretty dead. This battery’s reserve capacity is 170,
so 25 amps over 170 minutes is about 70 amp hours, and since this is a 12 volt battery,
that means it has a capacity of about 850 watt hours. This was good, as I had estimated her setup
would use about 100 watts, and it should just barely get her through an 8 hour day. But, another fun feature of lead-acid battery
chemistry, is that its capacity will go up the slower you discharge it. So while this battery may only be 850 watt
hours with a 300 watt load, cutting that load down to a third might boost the capacity into
the kilowatt hour range. If we’re real lucky, with a slow drain,
we might get 1.1 or 1.2 kilowatt hours out of this thing. So, we’ve got a battery. But now we need a way to convert the 12V DC
into the 120V AC that her stuff uses. That’s what inverters are for! These devices will boost the voltage and continually
invert the phase up and down to create A/C current from a DC source. If you’re running electronics, you definitely
want a pure sine wave inverter. This will replicate the sine wave pattern
as seen in true A/C power. Cheaper inverters will simply throw spikes
up and down, which many modern power supplies can tolerate, but which probably isn’t great
for everything. In choosing an inverter, we went extraordinarily
overboard. I basically combed through reviews for my
mom on Amazon, and while there was a much cheaper inverter that would have done the
trick, it had some lackluster reviews indicating it might overheat, so we went with this enormous
beast. You never know, it might truly come in handy
someday. And we also need a way to charge this battery. For that, we’ll use an automatic car battery
charger that my parents already had. This is a relatively slow charger, only putting
out 6 amps, but that’s 72 watts and will be enough to recharge this battery from empty
in 16 hours or so. If there were an extended power outage, the
charger could be run from the generator overnight. But having a slow charger is probably a good
thing. See, you do have to worry about hydrogen production
when the battery is being charged. Ordinarily very little hydrogen is produced, in fact ideally close to none should be produced and the bulk of hydrogen would come from a
battery being overcharged, which this automatic charger should prevent from occuring. But, even if it were to overcharge the battery,
the amount of hydrogen generated is directly dependent on the amount of current being pushed
into the battery. I ran the numbers and determined that in order
for hydrogen to reach dangerous levels in this room with 6 amps of charge current, it
would require about a month of overcharging. So clearly, that’s not a concern. However, I did alter course for safety–I
was planning on situating the battery on a small cart, but its partially enclosed top
could trap hydrogen and potentially create a small explosion risk. So I went to work setting things up. This battery has threaded studs to mount cables
to in addition to standard lugs. We’ll use the studs with the supplied cables
from the inverter, but I did add a large fuse for short-circuit protection. The inverter could theoretically pull 125
amps continuously (though the battery could not sustain that for very long) so I looked for a fuse above that rating. Now, I’m only adding this for protection
from a short circuit. The inverter has built-in protections of its
own, but in case something metal should get lodged behind the inverter, or some other
stupid thing causes a dead short, those 600+ cranking amps need something to stop them. But then, I added this little guy. This is a battery level monitor and voltage
indicator. This is really neat, it can support different
battery chemistries and voltages, but came preconfigured for a 12v lead acid battery. Now it’s showing that percentage based on
the battery’s voltage reading. This will give you a relatively good indication
of charge, but it means that if there’s a load on the battery, thus dropping its voltage,
the reading also drops. Additionally, whenever the battery is being
charged, the reading will jump to 100%, as the charger gives the battery a higher voltage
when charging. However, it will still serve as a useful indicator,
as after its initial drop, that percentage will steadily drop as it discharges. Best of all, pressing the button turns on
the backlight, and pressing it again will change to an actual voltage reading. The specs on this thing indicate that it draws
112 microamps when idle. That’s practically negligible, and will
perhaps cause the battery to lose 1% of charge over a few months. You’ll also notice that
this is connected straight across the battery. It would be wise to fuse this as well, however
it’s fairly likely that there is a fuse on its circuit board somewhere (even if it’s just a resistor or something that’s not “supposed” to be a fuse) and even if
there wasn’t one, these thin wires would quickly melt in a dead short scenario. Thus, I’m not worried about it. So now, this setup is pretty much done. After putting on the charger long enough for
it to switch to float charging mode, I lugged the battery and inverter down to her workstation. I also finally used a kill-a-watt to determine
the actual draw of her workstation. Hopefully it’s 100 watts or less. Amazingly, everything here only draws around
52 to 55 watts! It occasionally spikes to 70 watts, but even
if we take that as a worst-case figure (plus this will account for the 10 to 15% loss in
the conversion from the inverter), this battery will now easily pass 12 hours of backup time,
and with an average of 4 and a half to 5 amps being drawn from the battery, it may be even
more. This extra capacity also means the battery
won’t be as deeply cycled in a day, which will prolong its useful life. To use this is really simple. Everything is already plugged into a small
uninterruptible power supply, but this is really small and can only realistically provide
20 minutes of power, maybe an hour if we got super lucky. However, it means that in the event of a power
failure, everything is seamless. If the power goes out, everything in her setup
will remain powered on. To switch to the large backup supply, all
you need to do is unplug the power cord of the UPS from the wall, and plug it into one
of the outlets on the inverter. After you switch the inverter on, the UPS
will say “hey, that power looks OK”, and it switches back to what it thinks is normal
AC power. At this point, the entire setup is running
solely from the large battery. This should provide at least a full day’s
work of backup power, and possibly 2 if the slow drain boosts the battery’s capacity
up to 1.2 kilowatt hours. When the power comes back, just switch off
the inverter. The UPS will kick back into action briefly,
but after plugging it into the wall, it will be on true AC power again. Then, just grab the car battery charger, hook
it up, and after an overnight charge the battery will be full again. If there’s a prolonged power outage, the
battery charger could theoretically become an indirect power source for the inverter,
using the battery itself as a large buffer or ballast. The dirty energy coming from the generator
would be converted to DC power, and when the inverter switches it back to AC, it will be
clean as a whistle. This charger might even be enough, as 6 amps
works out to 72 watts. However, it would be pretty close. A larger battery charger might be desired
for this purpose. But using this with a generator isn’t really
the point. If that were the point, then a wiser investment
is a generator with a built-in inverter, which can safely power electronics. Rather, the goal of this setup is to provide
immediate, easy, and convenient backup power that will last at least a day. For most power outages, this battery will
be all that’s needed to get my mom through it. One last thing before I sign off–this brass
lug on the inverter should be grounded. Right now, when on battery power, none of
this equipment has a connection to earth. This isn’t necessarily an abhorrently dangerously
scenario, but to be safe a ground lead should be attached here. We could attach a lead to the ground wire
inside this electrical box, or we could use an adapter like this. Whichever you choose, make sure it actually
has a good ground connection. Thanks for watching, I hope you enjoyed the
video! Lead-acid battery technology may be wicked
old, but it has some compelling applications such as this. But remember, this battery won’t last many
cycles. It doesn’t have to, as it will probably
only get a discharge a few times a year if that, but if you want to regularly charge
and discharge a lead-acid battery for energy storage, you want to choose a better battery. Golf cart batteries, which are usually 6 volts
and thus require a pair to be wired in series to get 12V, are a good start. The solar power community seems to favor Trojan
batteries for longevity. I’m planning on making some videos analyzing
the costs and lifespan of deep cycle lead acid batteries versus lithium ion for stationary
energy storage, because the winner may be less obvious than it seems. But for now, thank you to everyone who supports
this channel on Patreon, especially the fine folks who have been scrolling up your screen. With the amazing support of people just like
you, I’ve been able to turn Technology Connections from a weird hobby into my full-time job. And there are big projects just around the
corner. If you’d like to pledge some support to
the channel to help it grow, please check out my Patreon page. Thank you for your consideration, and I’ll
see you next time! ♫ do do do do do do ♫ ♫ a jazzy sax ♫ ♫ some piano and drums chime in ♫

100 thoughts on “TC Projects: Lead-Acid Battery Backup

  1. Why not leave the equipment plugged into the inverter all the time and keep the charger connected to the wall? That way you basically built an online UPS.

  2. It's really a shame that capacitors are so much bulkier and more expensive than chemical batteries for the same power storage, because they win out over batteries in every other metric.

    That includes being environmentally friendly, by the way. Most of what goes into a capacitor is biologically and environmentally inert.

  3. Sounds like my local Coop. It can be a sunny day and the power just flickers and goes out. They have been replacing poles but they don't notify anybody when they are intentionally cutting the power.

  4. Replace everything with one box. No connecting or reconnecting anything. It is great.
    https://www.victronenergy.com/inverters-chargers/multi-500-va

  5. A little bit overcomplicated. You just have to connect a bigger battery to an UPS.
    Yes, it will work. Yes, it will not overheat. Yes, it will not kill the charger iside…

    Any half-decent UPS designed for about 5-10 minutes of on-battery run time, and it will reach near steady-state temperature in that time. And if in doubt, use sensibly sized UPS, do not use 300VA unit for 300VA load.

    If will run forever, without overheating. The UPS will manage the battery much better than that external charger would. Batteries without proper management and balancing AND without regular inspection are no joke. I had a chance to see what happens if one battery in a series pack gets a shorted cell. The pack had no balancing, nor inspected regularly. One day we found out that the other batteries are boiling and melting because they are overcharging.

  6. the biggest problem I'm finding, is deciding on a "good" inverter. that will last and is good quality, but,t here are no serious sites or youtubers who tear down inverters and TEST them and test them over time. it's pot luck.

  7. Missing the ground is very dangerous, it's why commercial/enterprise UPS systems come with a big warning stating to not unplug the unit to test it, as you will remove the ground protection. If any of the equipment connected has developed a fault (ie, a wire touching a chassis) while on your ungrounded setup, you could be electrocuted by simply brushing up against the device. Ground protection is critical and should never be omitted.

  8. No need for the inverter. The battery in the backup battery is a 12V lead acid battery. I have modified them in the past to use a larger external battery. The only issue is that the inverter doesn't really want to produce power for hours on end as it doesn't have internal cooling (some do) and isn't designed for long run times. Also I haven't been impressed with "pure sinewave" inverters. IMO there is no such thing as it is just chopping up and getting close. Without some sort of rotating mass I don't see a true sinewave inverter possible.

  9. Superb video, just a question and I'm not suggesting it for your mum, but is it a big technical step to have the battery back up switch over automatically after x minutes of no mains power? Does that require an additional unit? Thanks and keep up the interesting content!

  10. WTF mon. That is a lot of energy waste. Why didn't you just remove the tiny battery for the UPS and connect the battery directly? Instead, now it is DC-AC to power the UPS, then the UPS converts that AC-DC the charge the tiny battery

  11. add an automatic transfer switch in a box to do the plugging for you with the ups just being there to float over the switching time

  12. Why not float the battery all the time? Then the whole setup becomes totally seamless and your mom doesn’t have to do anything but continue working. If the outage runs too, just start the portable generator and keep on going.

    Also, it is possible that the DSL connection you mentioned my also be affected by the outage. Then the VPN line will also die and she will only be able to work offline with no access to services provided by her employer’s office. It also sounds like her phone is VOIP (you said it was the same as it was in her work office) so that would disappear without the VPN too.

  13. You did a good job of your intent.
    I wish to help you and others out on a much better way!
    Just use an old back-up power supply to start with and remove the old battery or batteries. Be careful of the positive and negative and connect a pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries in series. You can add a cheap 'Harbor Freight ' solar panel system to them.
    The backup power supply already has a sine-wave 110 out for your Mom's computer, an auto low-charge system and automatic switching to the battery system!
    The solar panel deal isn't needed unless power is off for days!
    It doesn't matter because the Solar panel rig will only charge when the batteries need it!
    Take Care Buddy and I hope this is helpful! Great Video!

  14. Saw this and was just curious as I have a solar battery back up on 100w panel with 1260 WH battery. I would say adding solar panel and charge controller " victron mppt with Bluetooth are my favorites" would be more helpful than 6amp charge on battery over time. The charge controller could supply the 50w and not drain battery at all. At that note you could run the setup off solar power-battery all the time no switching plugs :).

  15. Bit of a late comment, sorry. Great video. You might have wanted to stress not to short the battery. Once happened to my car battery – bang , fizz and fire.

    Also might want to check out nickle iron batteries – almost indestructible.

    Finally also attach the red /positive first, then the black negative – reduced chance of sparks

    Fantastic video, well done 🙂

  16. Golf cart batteries are the best for your purpose, These are the best
    Trojan T-1275 Deep Cycle Plus 12 Volt Golf Cart Battery. …
    Trojan T-1260 Plus Deep Cycle 12 Volt Golf Cart Battery. …
    Trojan 30 XHS 12 Volt Golf Cart Battery. …
    US 12VXC XC2 12 Volt Golf Cart Battery. …
    Exide 12 Volt Golf Cart Battery. …
    Deka 100 Ah AGM 8A27 12 Volt MK Battery. …
    Crown GC-155 12 Volt Golf Cart Battery.

  17. ….man I just slapped two 12v 100ah batteries in to a consumer APC unit that had two 12v 9ah batteries and called it a day,.just can't use the software.to auto shutdown as it looses it's.mind with upgraded capacity. Maybe I'll upgrade to puresine some sometime.

  18. If we're running electronics that anyways run on DC, gosh darnit why don't maufacturers give a DC line-in like they used to for electronic devices around 25 years ago.

  19. Dude! You MUST use an Inverter Generator in order for a UPS to take that AC!!

    Any other generator uses a governor and usually get closer to 60Hz towards full load but never good enough for a UPS.

    You could have done much better with an inverter/charger with ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch).

  20. See my other comment below, but big dislike for putting a WET battery inside a house!!

    Dude! Get an SLA battery instead!

    Do I have to tell you about the explosive gases they produce when being charged?

    How about the burning acid in them?

    IF you are going to be your mom’s little genius, do better research and at least get a sealed battery box to put the battery in.

    By ‘law’, at least for a battery inside a car, you MUST ALSO have a pipe venting it to the OUTSIDE!

  21. My UPS works perfect by at my new place but at my old place it wouldn't work for some reason if the power went out anything connected to it would shut off and it would just make a loud beeping sound one continuous sound until you forced it to reset itself I have no idea what was up with that also that place was so poorly built that the power would go out all the time only for like 30 seconds but just long enough to make your computer completely shut off

  22. I know this is an older video but to make it a bit easier for your mom you could wire the plugs to a simple sub panel with a transfer switch and a switch to turn the trickle charger on and off. That way all she has to do is throw a couple of switches instead of crawling under the desk.

  23. I ran a similar setup for a 50gal fish tank when the power went out for 2 days. I used my trucks agm battery, and the total draw was less than 20 watts, but not including the conversion loss from the inverter.

  24. 2 suggestions would be getting a smaller sine waver inverter like a 300 watt inverter that will draw less power. Also get a better sealed deep cycle agm battery.

  25. why not use the plethora of lithium ions that now come in huge capacities. Like you can run power tools off of the new stuff. Am I missing something?

  26. But you contradict yourself. The power doesn't come from the acid if sulfate stays sulfate and protons stay protons (bound to oxygen). What changes is the Pb -> Pb2+, which yields energy, similar to the reaction of most metals to metal-cations (think sodium to sodium+ in water). Pb4+ -> Pb2+ also yields energy, I would presume, as Pb2+ is the most stable oxydation state of lead.

  27. Neat idea. Also, why not leave the battery hooked up to the charger all the time? I thought those charger typically switch to a trickle charge mode when the battery us full like a battery tender, no? I leave the some stuff like that plugged in all the time in the garage but I guess I'm not so concerned about the hydrogen gas.

  28. Good video. One note when using a ups be careful when unplugging from wall to inverter. During that time the ups won’t be grounded either.

  29. your making it 10000 times harder than it should be …2000 watt inverter generator clean power takes minutes to set up

  30. get an electrical box and 3 way switch to change the incoming load from the wall to the inverter with the flip of a switch, vs pluggin it your self

  31. I have 3 of those APC inverters, which contain a 6V sealed lead acid battery. My only gripe is that by the time the automatic self test fails, the battery is truly dead and offered no protection for quite some time. (same thing happened for 2/3 of them so far)

  32. Very helpful. I'm wondering if there is a way using similar components to "clean up" the output of a generator for running electronic equipment. I already know about inverter generators but they are expensive, underpowered and I already have a 5kw generator that's about 10 years old. I have never seen a retrofit inverter. How difficult would one be to construct?

  33. Just found this video. It is awesome! I am setting up my minivan to take some trips and I have a marine battery. I wanted a video to teach me how to use a marine battery just to charge my phone, laptop, CB radios, maybe a 12 volt fan, etc. This was perfect! I will probably have to watch it a few times more and take notes just to be sure I didn't miss anything, but the information was very clear. Thank you so much! Your Mom is lucky to have you to set up her system for her!

  34. I live in the countryside and i have had a total of two Power outages over the last 11 years, one of which was because a tree fell on the power lines and snapped them. The other one was less than an hour. Europe ftw.

  35. How about a link to the inverter? What brand is it? Not too bad on the video, but you missed a couple things. There are already plenty of videos on YT about the difference between lead acid and lithium ion batteries, even the advantages to using a Tesla battery over a standard lithium ion battery so you might be a little behind the curve with that idea.

  36. Just to add: the cables between inverter and battery are a bit thin. They are fine for this exact application, but if you ever want to pull rated 1500W from this inverter, you might find it will shut off because too thin cables do not allow to pull required amperage. Or they might get hot and even start a fire. Gauge (diameter) of DC cables needs to be calculated to the expected current flow.

  37. It'd be more efficient to run the low voltage devices directly from the battery. Many device that have a 9 volt input still have a step down converter. But, you need to know your electronics to do this. Or, use your own buck converter. Going from 12VDC to 9VDC is much more efficient than going from 12VDC to 120VAC to 9VDC.

  38. I would have just installed a 12 – 6 volt dc-dc transformer (assuming that the UPS only uses one SLA) and wired the deep cycle marine into the battery compartment of that UPS through it.
    something like this would do https://www.amazon.com/Diymore-Synchronous-Converter-Step-Down-Module/dp/B072BN43P8/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=200+watt+dc+dc+converter&qid=1568600623&s=gateway&sr=8-2
    Obviously it wont fit inside it so you may have to defeat a compartment-open sensor. Maybe the beeper too because that would be infuriating after hours of use.

  39. @Technology Connections
    Its been a year. How many cycles? How much charge does it still hold? Any updates would be helpful. I'm trying to decide if these marine DeepC are worth it. Thank you

  40. Why don’t cars use deep cycle batteries and just store current needed for ignition in a capacitor?
    Hopefully this isn’t an idiotic question 🙂

  41. Why not just open up the UPS and swap out it's crap batteries with the Deep cycle battery that you bought? Yeah, you'd still need the separate charger ( maybe even two chargers + another battery if it's a 24v system )… but you wouldn't have to buy that wicked expensive sine wave inverter!

  42. Also, you could get solar panels from Harbor Freight. Also, if you use a trickle charger on a deep cycle battery, they will last a few years. Thats how my uncle did it with his trolling motor battery.

  43. Is there something preventing you from hooking that large marine battery up to the charge controller in the UPS? It's already designed to provide clean power, and charge lead acid batteries, and while slow wouldn't have a problem charging that giant battery.

  44. I have been using a marine deepcycle battery in my F350 going on 6 years now. A walmart 29DC battery. Same battery 6 years later, still works perfect. Its a 7.5l V8, has no problem starting the motor up, and I can leave my headlights on all night and it will still start up lol best investment ever.

  45. It is only slightly more expensive to get a dual Charger and Inverter that can just be plugged in all the time. It will keep the battery topped off and will kick in if the power goes out. Much easier and not allot more expensive

  46. iirc, it's quite important that the battery charge rate is correct for the size of battery (one of the reasons you can't just take an APC UPS and replace the tiny battery with a beast like this). I don't recall the details, but it would be worth checking out before buying the components for this.

  47. I rigged this up once for my job on a scenic railway.
    Shortest version, we had some electrical problems. The AC voltage at the outlet would drop down to 80V/90V, probably due to a bad wire.
    The 1000W Public Address system for our announcements we used had a 100V cutoff, and would just blink a red light and not work. I don't know how much power it pulled, but it was usually about 400-600W.
    So I got a 12V deep cycle, a trickle charger, and a 1500W inverter. Rigged them all up the same as a UPS.
    It ran for about four or five weeks until the issue with our wiring was found.
    Luckily, the PA amplifier had noise filtering on the AC input, so it wasn't bothered by the crappy inverter we used.

  48. Harps on about pure sine inverters buys a fake pure sine wave inverter

    Harps on about batteries
    Buys a fake deep cycle battery which is a car battery with a differant sticker

    A car battery however will last several hundred cycles

    He however says nothing about the 50% DOD that keeps a lead battery in good condition it don’t matter if you have a car battery or a real deep cycle battery they should never go below 12.1v this bloke seem to intend to run the battery flat which will kill it after a handful of cycles

  49. They are the oldest type of rechargeable battery, invented in 1859 by French physicist Gaston Planté.

    My, what a guy, that Gaston!

  50. one concern of mine – make sure the electrolite levels stay topped, I remember the time my dad tried to started his car like usual, and sudenly the battery blew like some small acid bomb, denting the hood and covering the engine underneath in acid. So it would be best to keep separated from living/working spaces and maintained well in any case

  51. Lead-acid is a completely obsolete piece of technology. I have more than 150 of these UPS VRLA battery in the company's store room waiting for recycle. They are not only large and heavy, low on energy density, but they fails NATURALLY even if they were kept undischarged. I must admit these battery (and the UPS they belong to) was working in a very harsh condition but their performance are so awful that I believe they should be replaced by Li based or others which employ more advanced technology some day.

  52. Not trying to nitpick. I would recommend NOT keeping a big lead acid battery indoors and at your mother's feet. Surely there's a porch or crawlspace where the battery could be kept out of the weather.

  53. Good to see you use a pure sine wave inverter, have used cheap inverters that run off car battery to power drill charger that used a switching psu, the output of cheap inverter was essentially a square wave and confused the hell out of the drill charger so it never worked properly.

  54. I work at AutoZone and have to test/charge batteries every day, and subsequently explain why batteries die, this video was a lot more helpful then anything else I've seen, thank you!

  55. They have what looks like Google WiFi, and I'm assuming that you at least helped them pick it out and install it. If you do a Google WiFi video, that would be awesome. I've been wondering how that works. Just a thought…

  56. You're kind to offer the fast forward time but I'm here to learn things while I do mindless stuff at work! 😁

  57. I remember a year ago when you posted this video. How has this setup handled the last 364 days of service, care to do a follow-up on it?

  58. First, unless your ONT or Coax terminal is also on a UPS plus any intermediary networking equipment is also on an UPS .. ALL Internet based work will be lost and your connection terminated.

    In my home: ONT is on a UPS, all networking equipment (Router, Switches, WiFi, etc) is on an UPS. In addition to that the whole house is on a whole house Generac generator. Most UPS have a "generator mode" .. certainly the APC's have this and if you fail to use that mode more than likely your UPS will non-stop be switching on and off and eventually drain itself.

    APC generator mode (desensitized) https://www.apc.com/us/en/faqs/FA158842/

  59. The absolute best batteries for a small inverter setup right now (Oct. 2019) are LiFePO4 – Lithium Iron Phosphate. They are NOT cheap, but their cell voltage makes them compatible with 12 volt DC systems and lead acid battery chargers. Not only that, but they are safer than standard LiPo batteries – as safe as Lead Acid, minus the acid. You'll get a Lot more cycles out of them. You can discharge them a lot further than lead acid (which cannot be discharged below 50% without significant reduction in capacity). A well maintained Lead-Acid battery will give you a couple hundred cycles At Best. Just about any Lithium composition battery will give you 4-5 times that (800-1000 cycles) even if used hard, and LiFePO4 will last around 2000 cycles – about ten times a lead acid battery.

  60. You should think about running for some office somewhere. You have pleasant personality, You seem smart, but most important you can make logical decisions and have a desire to make the world a better place (got that from other videos).

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