Range Oven F1 Error Repaired

Range Oven F1 Error Repaired


Ok, we had a little problem with our range the other day. We had the oven on and it was on low and we were also cooking on top, and all of a sudden there was a loud boom explosion, like an M80 or something from in behind here and it started beeping and saying F1 here. And so after that I hit clear and the F1 went away, but then the oven stopped working, so all the stovetop elements still worked but inside the oven doesn’t work. So I went online and read that F1 probably meant that there was a problem with the timer in here. So I’m gonna take out the stove, see if I can see what might have exploded, and see if I need to replace this timer. OK, I’m gonna remove the bottom drawer so it’s just easier to slide out and see what surprises we have. Underneath here. Uh, let’s see… Let’s see. Let’s see. So I found the instructions in this fault code. Likely failure condition/cause: Shorted keypad, control internal checksum blah blah blah blah blah. Anyway, the first thing on the list is replace the EOC. The EOC is the Electronic Oven Control, so that’s the main keypad on there. OK, first undo the power. Because we don’t want to get shocked. The next thing we need to do is take off the back cover. OK, you’re gonna need; I’m gonna take off the back to get to the Electronic Oven Control, the EOC module or whatever, see if I can see what’s blowing up. You’re gonna need a screwdriver with a square drive type of screwdriver so I have this little bit and it just fits perfectly in there. So go ahead and take out all the screws around the top. That holds on this cover. There will be other screws on the top, but only take the ones that are really holding this cover on. Those are the only ones you need to remove. OK, so down here we have the Electronic Oven Control. Now there’s definitely a lot of wires connecting to this, so we don’t want to get any switched around. They don’t have any color coding on there saying which wires, so what I think I’m gonna do, just to make sure, is keep them in the same order here. So I might tape them. Ok, I’m just going to cheat a little bit here and put these in some tape. I might need a little gerber or some sort of pliers to pull that off, might help getting this off here. There we go. Ok, so we need to use the same square drive to take off the control module here. Bring it over here. Let’s take a look at it. Ok, so I’m not seeing any obvious burn marks right here anywhere, but I’m gonna, I want to investigate a little bit more, because it’s like I heard a loud explosion and they’re saying most often when you get that often damaged part when you get that F1 error is this oven control module. So I just wanted to take a look inside of it. *gasp* Oh, yeah. Oh, wow. So you can see there are some serious scorch marks here, it looks like maybe right here was what blew up. So whatever this part is right here, it looks like that is what blew up. Pretty intense burn there. Almost surprised it didn’t catch on fire or something! But anyway, so yeah, so I’m gonna replace this control module, I think you can find them on Ebay maybe, anywhere from maybe $90 to like a new OEM one for about $150 is about what they are going for. You ready? Ok, well I got a replacement part here, now it’s slightly different, I would not advise you to get one, like I got one off Craigslist, basically off one, a unit that looked identical but it was just a year or two older than mine, and there is two legs missing here, so I ended up looking at the schematics and rewiring a little bit. I would not recommend doing that, I would just get the equivalent part, like I said you could probably get them off Ebay, but anyway, I’m gonna put it back together and give it a shot here. Basically, the part that was missing off the older control module that I got off Ebay was the part that blew up, so newer things aren’t always better, I guess. Well, heh heh , we’ll see here. Get this all back in here. OK, these top three connectors are all the same, like it was. Ok, make sure they are all on there good. Reattach this part. And, put on the back cover. Luckily, the wiring on this is pretty straightforward, and the provide you a little schematic inside this bag here, so if in doubt, you could look at that, or you could always hire a repair technician to come out and do it for you. Alright. I’ll go plug it in now here. And we’ll slide the unit back. That’s a good sign, the clock is working here. Alright, lets see if we can turn on the oven here. Bake. Alright, that’s looking good. Looking good. Now, before we weren’t getting any heat in here. Yea, you can see the elements heating up there, so definitely a new module fixed it. Clear it out of here. So that was it. I got that replacement part off of Craiglist, it cost me definitely a lot less, I turned that one off already, but pretty easy fix to replace this, so I wouldn’t be concerned about doing it yourself if you’re worried about getting in there., and you’re kind of handy, but definitely, if in doubt, I would just hire it out. But, certainly a pretty easy, just a few screws to get in there.

13 thoughts on “Range Oven F1 Error Repaired

  1. Thank you for making the video. You did a great job and did not drag it out like so many of them do. My range did that same exploding noise too….liked to have made me jump out of my skin!

  2. Thank-you for this video, it was extremely helpful…my model has a replacement cost of $200-300 (used are a little less).

  3. Thanks for the share, it was very helpful. But seriously, who has such a clean, dust free space behind their stove? 😛

  4. Thanks for the video mine let go Monday and yes its a Maytag ,the part that get my anger going is the cost for my stove replacement cost for a control timer is $909.52 And off course Maytag was bought by Whirpool so there .

  5. saludos amigo necesito saber de cuanto es el transformador de esa placa ke el mio se me quemo para canbiarselo gracias

  6. Hello, first off thank you for sharing this. I have the same range (but stainless steel) that came with a house I purchased, I am having the same issue and code FI appeared. My question to you is after replacing the part do you still have the oven? does it still work? These are older models and I have no clue the original price to determine if this is truly a quality unit and I should repair or just replace. Anything will help, please let me know.

  7. This is actually a fairly easy fix. Manufacturers tend to use lead-free solder which doesn't tend to age well. It weakens and thermal stress fatigue cracks form and will sometimes blow the solder joints – particularly on high current relays.

    Easy to fix if you're handy, but if not, try TheRepairShack . com for a $100 fix.

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