How to paint SPACE WOLF Armour – Kujo Painting [Tutorial]

How to paint SPACE WOLF Armour – Kujo Painting [Tutorial]

Alright guys, welcome back! So we recently hit 2000 subscribers and we’re
well on our way to 3000. woohoo! Good times. To celebrate I’m going to show how to paint
Space Wolf Armour. Specifically the blue, gold and red bits. So this bad boy here is what we’re aiming
for. Alright so I’ve loaded up my palette here
with The Fang Fenrisian Grey Vallejo Dark Sea Blue Black A saturated red, this here is Baal Crimson
from Fantasy and Games, but you can use any red you like. Next up we’ve got Mars Orange from Scale Color,
again use whatever orange you like, Lugganath Orange from the GW edge range is pretty decent. Ok and we’ve got some XV-88 Balor Brown Rhinox Hide Vallejo Ghost Grey And finally, some white. Ok so to start off, what we’re going to do
is take some of The Fang, and block in a solid base coat. You can see here that this is going to be
my second coat. It’s always better to use two thin coats than one thick one. For the first highlight we’ll make a 50/50
mix of The Fang and Fenrisian Grey. We’re going to roughly block this in along
the top of the thigh plate. Then you want to pull the pigment up towards
your highlight. So this is going to give you an initial starting
point for your blend. Next up we’ll make a glaze using that same
mix. And we’re going to glaze over the transition,
in the direction of our highlight. You can see here that it’s a little rough
so we’ll make another glaze, this time with our base colour. And this time we’re going to glaze over the
rough patch, going in the other direction. Eh, you can actually see that I’m doing this
incorrectly. I’m going towards the highlight instead of away from it D’oh! So, do the opposite of what I’m doing just
now. Alright so now we’re going to use Fenrisian
Grey to paint a thin line on top of the plate. We’re going to paint this for about half it’s
length. Followed by a little edge highlight, like
so. Ok so again, make a glaze this time with the
Fenrisian grey. And we’re going to glaze in the direction
of our highlight. You can see it looks really harsh right now.
But that’s kinda what we want. What we’ll do is we’ll soften this out with
an inbetween colour, but the starkness of that initial highlight is going to show through
a little which will help get that shiny look later on. So take your initial highlight and mix in
a little Fenrisian Grey. And then we’ll add some water to give use
a thickish sort of a glaze. Now unfortunately my camera stopped working
here so I actually missed the first half of this, but it’s the same idea you used in the
previous steps, you’re just going to pull the pigment up over the surface, towards your
highlight, using that initial line as a guide. So, something like this. Alright, so once you’ve done that, you’re
going to reinforce the line again with Fenrisian Grey. But make your highlight about half as long
this time. Alright, so we’re going to do the shading
now. We’ll take some of our Dark Sea Blue, and
we’ll just block it in towards the lower edges of the armour. Now you’re going to want to make a glaze and
apply it in the direction of the shadow. So just build this up, over a couple of layers.
Until you blur out the transition. So to finish this up, what we’re going to
do it take some pure white and dot just where the edge highlight meets the line at the top
of the thigh. For the red knee pad, take some of your red
and mix in some black. You’re looking to make quite a dark red for
your initial base coat. Just go ahead and block that in. Now we’re going to mix some red into our base
colour and use that for our first highlight. You want to just try and pull the paint up
over the surface towards the top of the pad. Now we’re going to highlight again, except
this time we’re gonna go straight for our brightest red. The thing about red is that because it’s so
transparent, the paint will go on looking super bright, but when it dries it just sort
of dulls out so you really need to apply a few layers until you get that nice vibrant
red tone. Alright so, now we’re going to take some of
our orange and we’ll edge highlight along the top edge of the knee pad. When I’m doing this I tend to use the side
of the brush towards the tip of the bristles. It’s a lot easier doing it this way than trying
to paint it on very the very tip of the brush. You have a lot more control over what’s happening
when you’re using the side. Mix some white into your orange and you’ll
use that to just pop the last highlight. So again we’re going another edge highlight,
but this time we’re hitting only the very top of the armour plate. To do the freehand we’ll grab some Vallejo
Ghost Grey, and we’ll trace in a zigzag pattern over the centre of the knee pad. Just work from one side to the other. Try
and be neat. If you do make any mistakes, you can just even out the line again using
the red tones on your palette. For the rivets simply paint them black, and
then come back with some pure white and dot the top of them. You want to try and make this dot quite small
so that you leave a black outline around it. Ok so, we’ll move on to the gold parts now. Start with some XV-88. And we’ll just apply this onto the top of
what are going to be the gold sections. You can notice that I’ve already based these
areas with black. So try and leave some of the black showing
in the recessed areas, that’s going to help give you a really strong contrast. Next we’ll use Balor Brown. You want this to be a fairly heavy glaze consistency. So we’re going to go for a highlight here,
in the centre of the top edge. And another one at the corner on this lower
bit here. Alright so mix in some white and we’ll make
a little transition on the palette to save time. And then you’re going to want to just build
up your highlight, all the way up to white. When I’m doing these little thin surfaces,
what I like to do is to dot the brush where I want the highlight to be and then while
it’s still wet, sweep the brush up to the dot on either side. Hopefully you can see what I mean by that. To shade the gold we’ll make a fairly thick
glaze with Rhinox Hide. And we’ll apply this so that it’s moving away
from the highlights. To finish off we’ll add some very small highlights
with white. You want to dot these along the edge so that
they are next to your darkest areas. It’s the same sort of idea as when you’re
painting, say, a gemstone. That one on the rivet there was a bit too
big so what we’ll do is take some of our Rhinox hide and shrink it a bit. Alright, so that is how you paint space wolf
armour. Alrighty, so thanks for watching guys, I hope
that was useful. Don’t forget to like and share the video,
subscribe if you haven’t already and I’ll see you all in the next one. Thanks again. Bye for now.

49 thoughts on “How to paint SPACE WOLF Armour – Kujo Painting [Tutorial]

  1. love your tutorials. short and to the point that show some of the things that took me so long to understand from written tutorials I've seen in the past.

  2. Thanks so much for sharing your skills and the techniques, amazing work as always. Your now my number one painting guru on YouTube 😀

  3. I'm using a wet palette but it doesn't keep my paints thin like that. Do you thin them once there on the palette or do they come straight from the pot. Maybe my sponge/ palette paper isn't very similar to yours

  4. Great tutorial, a bit on the darker side of the palette, but that's fine, since everyone seems to paint too pale when they apply the lights on the minis. Keep doing such good tutorials.

  5. Thank you so much for taking the time to make these tutorial, high quality painting tutorials, beautiful paintjobs and everything's explained and shown really well.

  6. You make it look so easy 🙁
    I definitely can see now that i don't use enough water coverage on my wet pallet in comparison to yours. I have always found it breaks up my pigments in the paints too much, however im guessing that i must be doing something drastically wrong.

  7. You are using a Winsor & Newton – Series 7 Miniature brush, but does "#3" refer to the size? So do you use a size 3 and not size 2,10,00 or 000 brush (in your video)?

  8. Fantastic, I was in awe of your models over on Reddit. Didnt know you had a youtube channel, great stuff. I will certainly have to give this a try on some dark angels.

  9. Ace mate! These are quality. Was looking for this exact thing for my terminators. Do you reckon you could show how you did these bases?

  10. Your videos have come such a long way in terms of quality of production. The skills on show are simply stunning. It's not just the colour schemes I enjoy when watching tutorials but the technique. I don't plan to paint space wolves but I can see how the techniques can be used on some centrepiece models I'm hoping to start soon. Please keep them up, loved it!

  11. what do you mean when you say we make a glaze? is just waterdown of the color? or do you combine the color with something? and thanks for the awesome video!

  12. How do you make a glaze? You just come out of nowhere and say “make a glaze?”

    “Paint towards the shadow..” what does that even mean? You just throw in these terms and techniques without explaining what exactly you’ are doing.

  13. the DOT AND SLIDE painting technique! I think that's another one to add to the list along with glazing, wet blending, two brush blending and the loaded brush 🙂

  14. Nice tutorial! Thank you so much for showing us the palette, it is very hard for a beginner to know how thin a glaze should be, or how much paint should be loaded to the brush etc when blending

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