Electric Range Stove Repair: How To Repair Burner Elements

Electric Range Stove Repair: How To Repair Burner Elements


from this to this with a little bit of
this and this but this can turn into this and this if you don’t know about this ! Electric
stove tops and ovens have revolutionized the way
that we cook and live with precision temperature control nearly instant surface heat and simple
clean up we can spend less time sweating over a
hot stove and more time stuffing our bellies as wonderful as all this may seem few
will ever give a second thought to how it all works that is until it’s not working anymore
let’s take a moment to look at the electric burner element what’s under that marvelous shiny facade
what’s cause the stove that you’ve neglected to suddenly turn cold and how you can rekindle the heat that
you never really appreciated until it was gone like most appliances ovens and stovetops
are actually fairly simple machines they use a series of electrical circuits
to energize different components at the proper times as always a great amount of caution
should be used when troubleshooting and repairing electric appliances to keep that last meal from being your
last meal fortunately almost all the components in electric stove top oven
can be tested while disconnected from the electrical supply if you don’t have one of these babies or
don’t know the first thing about how to use one I’ve got you covered let your fingers do
the walking in come on down to ApplianceAssistant.com and have one of these shipped
to your front door why you learn how to use it by watching
a video don’t get much easier than that okay enough with my yapping let’s get to the
fixing. Let’s start at the top or more appropriately the surface
whether you have a glass top or coil elements the idea is the same turn a switch to send electricity
through the burner element and bingo you’ve got heat what could go wrong well actually
there’s three things that can go wrong ether the switch doesn’t close and allow
electricity to flow to the burner element the burner element is broken in some way
and won’t allow electricity to flow through it or the circuit is not energized with the
correct amount of electricity needed to do its work heating elements used electric ranges need 240 volts to operate in fact when
heating element is on it is constantly supplied with 120 volts it is only one other independent circuit is
applied used to cycle the element on and off that heat is actually generated first let’s check the power supply plug
your plug will have three or four connections two hot connections and one neutral
connection in this case there is also a ground connection set your meter at the first setting above 240
volts AC and check the right and left sides
independent from one another to the neutral connection each should give
a reading around 120-volts now check across the two hot
connections you should get a reading around 240 volts
if you don’t, reset the breakers that monitor the range circuit and try again if that worked
congratulations If not let’s keep digging each one of
the three components used in electric burner circuit can be tested for
continuity now if you just thought to yourself what the
heck does not mean watch the how to use a voltmeter video
and then you’ll be up to speed remember that when checking for
continuity or resistance the component being tested needs to be
disconnected from the rest to the circuit to prevent false readings
through some parallel circuit because the heating element generates
heat through electrical resistance it should show some resistance when
tested for continuity it should not show is being open or
having infinite resistance the switch that routes electricity to the
burner element can be checked in the same way it should be closed allowing electricity
to flow through to the element whenever the switch is turned on it should also be open not allowing
electricity to flow whenever the switch is turned off
remember that with a 240-volt electric range It takes two to make a thing go right 120 volt circuit connections that is
so fallow the wires back from the elements and check each connection independent from the
other L1 input to output L2 input to output most
switches are labeled L1 and L2 as well as H1 and H2 you may also see a P terminal L stands for line or input and H stands
for heater or output the P terminal generally is
the same connection is H1and is usually used for an indicator light so L1 H1 and L2 and H2 should show contact with the switch is
on and nothing when the switch is off it’s always wise to snap a quick picture
for reference before you start pulling off wires for your test an electric range burner switch is a
very interesting device it’s often assumed that this style switch
which is also called an infinite switch fluctuates the amount of current being
supplied to the burner and so controls the amount of heat that
is generated by the heating element in most cases this is not true except
for some very high end stoves that use a device called a potentiometer the more commonly used infinite switch
has an adjustable temperature sensitive bi-metal contact that will opening close one at the two 120-volt
circuits cycling the burner on of automatically
to maintain a desired temperature as current flows through the closed which
a small amount of heat is generated causing this thin strip of metal to Flex
out and break contact by setting the burner switch to high the
maximum amount of physical pressure is placed on this flexible contact
making it more difficult to flex out and open the circuit while a lower setting reduces the amount of
fiscal pressure making it easy flex and open. Because
infinite switches is use the flow of current to generate the heat required for
opening and closing the switch is important to note the wattage or amperage
ratings of the switch the switched used to control a large
burner element with a 10 amp draw will not correctly cycle a small burner
that uses less amperage and vice versa so what if the burner
sticks on? well the most common cause would be the
contacts within the switch are sticking closed or that carbon has
built up and is bridging the gap that would normally exist in a new switch the most common electrical supply
problem is a bad contact for connection especially when you’re dealing with the
range that has coil elements that plug into a receptacle which is also called the
block these contacts can become corroded over
time and may need to be cleaned with sandpaper or replaced in extreme cases. I know that was kind of
a lot of information a pack into 7 minutes but I hope that you found it
helpful please remember to like share and
subscribe! There’s a lot more appliance troubleshooting repair help and parts available and ApplianceAssistant.com thank you for watching!

100 thoughts on “Electric Range Stove Repair: How To Repair Burner Elements

  1. I have question. Today my stove a General Electric flat top was working this morning, but later in the afternoon is not working not even the oven everything is cool to the touch, but the range does turn on and the clock works and that's it. Do you know what the problem may be?

  2. awesome video and website! I have an electric glass top stove. one of the elements on the stovetop when turned on, will make a big spark coming from the element, blow the fuse in the electric panel and create some smoke. could it be the switch itself is faulty and pulling too much amps?

  3. My stove and oven work, but not at the temperature I need. The oven doesn't seem to cook food at the setting I get from a recipe; I always need higher temp or longer time. My stove only seems to work on high; the burner is nearly imperceptible on simmer. You can feel it with your hand but it's not high enough to actually simmer.

  4. I have a GE flat top everything works fine. However when I use the back left burner a breaker in a different part of her house trips. Any help is appreciated

  5. Good video. I was hoping that you would show a glass top element repair. I have a GE and the right front has large and small elements. The the large works fine but the small seems to be getting weaker over time. The small burner on the right rear has double the heating than the front right small element. Any idea if this has to do with an infinity switch with a poor conduction?

  6. My electric oven bottom element is on as soon as you plug in the electric cord. The controls are digital and won't control the stove ; what is my problem?

  7. Help have a ge glass slide in range, cook top stoped working, when turning on any ellements the light show which element is on, but no heat, the oven works fine.. suggestions as al the connects appear fine,

  8. Nice video! However, why might a single burner on a glass top (Kenmore brand) stove when turned on High glow orange with heat then go dark then glow orange with heat then go dark repeatedly? The other 3 burners stay orange with heat when put on high settings, but the 1 does not behave the same way and doesn't cook well (leading me to think it is probably going on/off at all temp settings and not just on high… it's only visible it's turning on/off on the high setting!). Thanks!

  9. Kenmore model no. 790.96229408, glass top range. The left front 8" burner with simmer control is not working. I replaced the burner element to no avail. I then replaced the element switch and it still does not work. All other components of range top and oven work fine. I've read that the oven relay board may be the culprit. Any suggestions?

  10. I have a GE JSP42SN4SS, few days ago my power boil element started behaving weirdly. The indicator that element is on is lighting all the time. When I turn the knob to start power up the coil, it glows red for 10 seconds and then switches off. Then does not switch on for 18-20 hours, after that much time if I turn the knob to switch it on, it again glows for 10 seconds and switches off. Is my coil thermostat bad? Do I need to replace the coil module with something like (http://www.amazon.com/GE-WB30T10133-Radiant-Element-Stove/dp/B004H3XQY8)?

  11. I have a Miele KM 544 induction hob. Whenever I attempt to use two hobs
    at the same time, they both are turned off and the letters F and E (
    on the the temperature hob) and the number 10 (on the timer panel)
    appear and I cannot use the appliance after that

  12. Thank you for the information. I had replaced the entire cook top wiring with a wire set from another brand of range. My brother sent me the replacement from a scavenged unit as mine only had two working burners. Replacement went flawlessly without help but the large element I usually use to boil water now took forever and never fully boiled.

    Your identifying the amperage range of the switches was the solution I needed. I simply swapped the infinite switches for the left two elements and solved the problem. The right two were already connected correctly. I can only guess that the original stove had both large burners on the front.

  13. Thanks for the video. have a three setting radiant element burner. The very center setting of the 3 element burner not working but the medium setting and large setting working. Pulled it out. Resistance on all three settings. Put back in stove. All three settings of the radiant element burner heat up individually until pan is placed on burner and then very center goes out or doesn't glow red anymore but middle and outer part of burner still work. Switch seems fine otherwise burner wouldn't work at all. Possible problems? Could the limiter be the issue? Could a switch be turning off the middle burner incorrectly? Model kenmore elite 79096593601. Thanks.3 weeks ago•

  14. Only one of my burners works only on HIGH. As soon as I try to lower the temperature it starts to cool down. Would this guide be helpful for me? What should my next step be?

  15. I searched for an oven with a ceramic and metal heating element from a heater in its oven interior and a fan Located on the back panel to repel steam and circulate the heat and molecules that help the oven's job to broil or bake. and the thumbnail brought me in.

  16. Excellent info, I have a question My electric range, burner when turn on very little red  come on and off quickly then little red again so on n off  to soon do I need replace the burner I did install infinity switch no to long ago thank you.

  17. My problem is I set temperature at a low setting and it heats on high. Temperature does not lower now. What is the problem?

  18. Thanks so much! Fixed my problem @5:18 The replacement switch I ordered was the issue, the infinite switch was rubbing against the plastic housing causing it to bind and get stuck, not allowing current to flow through. Used a razor blade to remove some plastic and allow the infinite switch to move freely, good as new!

  19. one of the best vids i have seen on this type of repair, exceptionally good. I liked how you showed close up of how the element terminals slide into the copper receptacles

  20. Thanks for taking the time to make the video! I'll need to troubleshoot the switches at least. I have a Frigidaire range model FED387CCS-C. For a long time the right front "hot" indicator light was stuck on, regardless. Recently I turned the back left knob to a higher heat and heard a loud POP near that back left burner. Now the red indicator light on the front only comes on when the back left burner is at the 7 or 8 setting (out of 10, High). And the other burners are behaving in a similar fashion. Could it be just the one, back-left switch that is affecting all the others? Any other ideas as to what it is? And where is a good place to buy switches (I'm in Portland, OR), assuming that will be the issue? Thanks in advance! Gary

  21. One of the control knobs on my GE oven is not able to control the heating temperature of the stoves . any suggestions

  22. My pleasure! Unfortunately no, this is the only range video I've made. But in most cases the back panel will come off with a few screws and the switch is held in place by 2 screws behind the knob. You need to order the switch by the range model number which is usually located behind the storage drawer on a sticker on the frame of the range. Make sure you get the right one for that element, they can be different depending on the element size. Good luck! Thanks for the question!

  23. After research a couple of of the video posts on your youtube now, and I truly like your approach of making vieo. I bookmarked it to my bookmark videos list and will probably be checking again soon. Pls try my website online as nicely and let me know what you think.

    Your home is valueble for me. Thanks!

  24. kecc566rss kitchenaid cooktop. middle front burner wont shut off. just goes to low all lights go off, still stays on low. lock all buners off it stays on low

  25. saludos amigo muy buen video exelente una preguntica esos bornes trabajam con 220 voltios y si los puedo poner directas sin la placa

  26. can you show how to connect 3 phase 440 volts rotary switch to low, medium, and high position electrical burner , using three electrical elements[ three elements 3 starting and 3 end terminal of elements] THANKS
    REPLY

  27. P.S…the burner controls have 5 positions…off, low, low/medium, medium, medium/high, and high. They are all mounted across the front of the stove so they should be pretty easy to access. Thanks

  28. One last thing…in the bottom is the access to the fuses and there are probably about 20 fuses down there!!! This doesn't have a fuse for each switch position does it???

  29. What to check when the hot surface indicator light stay on even with the burners off and cold ? Is that a wire on the infinite switch and what letter or number it should have?

  30. 12 year old Kenmore Elite stove. Front burner is cycling on and off. I've had to shut it down at the panel. Have some time tomorrow to troubleshoot. Suggestions? thx

  31. I just replaced the triple element on my Kenmore glass top. When I turn on the dual or triple burner the middle portion isn't a red as the inner or outer portion. Is this normal?

  32. This gives me a place to start. I was fixin' some mighty fine grub. Turned my burner on 3 and walked away..Next thing I know. I smelt my mighty fine grub a burnin'..Walked in and the coil was glowing RED HOT !!!..Wee doggies she was a cookin' a little more than I wanted..Tho it ruined bout 75% of my grub. The 25% off the top tasted mighty fine ! …BELCH

  33. For my problem there's a red spot next to the burner under the glass, that connector that the wires hook to is red hot. Help?

  34. Hello Dear, It was GREAT AND INFORMATIVE video,BUT in my country I don't have 110 volt , i switched it on 240 volt but the transformer which supplies the PCB get damaged ,i need solution to deal with my electricity standard which is one single phase 240 volt with minimal damage. thanks

  35. A lot of info is better than not enough, so I don't understand the down votes on videos such as this, were those people so stupid that they googled cat videos and watched this and decided to down vote it because there were no cats in it? I didn't google cat videos, i google how to remove the range top and this was on the side, so I might as well educate myself some prior to needing it. Thanks for a great video

  36. I have a question.
    my electric stove is acting wierd, at first when you start it when its cold, it heats up to a very high temp, to the point it turns off. and then the temp drops to a medium heat, which wont alloow me to maintain a high temp for frying and stuff. what do i need to do or check so that the temp stays high as the first time it heats? my thought is to use alluminum foil to stick the heat controlers together, so that it cant break contact when the heat max. thoughts?

  37. very informative. But where is the switch for the warming zone element centre back of my frigidaire stove top? It's controlled by pressing a button repeatedly on the panel beside the clock. The element doesn't turn on, and before replacing it, I wondered if something else could be the issue with it.

  38. Thanks for the great video. I have a newer Maytag glass top rage and the high output element will only work on medium to high. Nothing below works at all. I have already replaced the switch and that doesn't seem to be the issue. Any suggestions? Thanks.

  39. That was my thinking as well. Ordered a new element last week. Not in love with this range but not ready to replace it yet either.

  40. What do you think about a dual radiant element where the outer element doesn't get as hot as the center element? This is the second element and does the same thing. Originally, the outer element on the original burner got as hot as the center, but then something went "poof" and the outer element stopped getting as hot. I'm thinking the switch is bad. Also, do new cooktops give off a chemical smell when initially turned on? It's smells like chemical or plastic is burning when this same burner is turned on.

  41. on a glass top stove . i have a GE profile double oven , my big stove top burner goes on when ya turn it on but shuts off within a few seconds . the hot top stove light stays on all the time is it the switch or burner ? thank you

  42. Sorry, but I still don't know how to repair a burned out calrod element. Replacement is simple. Deceiving or misleading title.

  43. OK. seen a lot of fixer upper but my problem is my top burner gets hot on low I changed the control switch and guess what still get hot on low and medium anyone have this problem need help. Steve

  44. what is wrong if certain parts of the heating element lights (splotches of heat like a checkerboard or flannel shirt)

  45. [email protected] Thanks , someone can answer to me that , infinity switch / Control turn on and off by time or current or tempter ? for example … if you turn on at Medium , Volume 5, the Burner will be one and off by time ? thermostat will open and close by temperature ? how by metallic strip active ? by time ? by heat / temperature ? thanks…

  46. I love how you show to disconnect the wires to test, then afterwards mention you should snap a pic before doing so lol great video tho!

  47. Hi I have a Electric Range Kitchen Aid Model # KESH307HBL0, everything work fine with no errors on the screen. I did notice the left front dual element only energizes on the dual setting (med & high), nothing happens on the low setting. I believe the center of the element is supposed to illuminate but doesn't. I removed the glass and visually inspected the element and didn't notice any breaks to it. Also control knob switch,wires, and connections to this switch all look good. I'm assuming the voltage to the range is good since the other dual burner all work fine. I'm pretty good at tinkering with this stuff. Can you help me? Was wondering if I should dismantle the duel control switch to inspect the internal contacts? Your thoughts are appreciated.

  48. my cooktop took a pretty harsh spill and water got inside but i did not know that until i went to use it days after the spill. the burner would not shut off and smoke started coming from the control knobs. we hit the breaker right before it could catch fire. It made a loud pop sound and the housing to the cord is melted. is there any way to save this or is there no hope. I dont even know if i can open it to test everything but im willing to try to repair it if it will save me $1000.

  49. Is there a spring or something in the switch my wife said she turned the burner on and sounded like something unraveled now knob just turns and burner does not come on

  50. May I use a small portion of this video in a video I'm working on? I just want to show an oven element burning, and would be more than happy to point back to this video.

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